Photo shoot, fitting or fashion show - there are many talented people behind the “perfect look”. VIVID presents three creative contributors and their perspectives on the processes behind fashion.

Düsseldorf is also an attractive location for creative people who work behind the scenes in the fashion industry. Stylists and hair & makeup artists set the stage perfectly for campaigns. Fashion photographers like Alexander Schier from Düsseldorf stage editorials for international magazines like Vogue, Elle and Harpers Baazar. Sound designers like Lukas Heerich compose the sounds that accompany the fashion shows. Agencies like Nina Klein specialise in fi nding stylists and hair and makeup artists. There are also agencies representing a range of photographers, one of the most renowned in Düsseldorf is called Rockenfeller & Göbels. International model agencies like IMM or No Toys provide brands with the right faces and settings and sometimes a whole industry with a new aesthetic - like the androgynous male models of Tomorrow Is Another Day. Eva Gödel's model agency in Düsseldorf provides individual characters for shows and advertising motifs for Balenciaga or Prada, making it one of the most sought-after model agencies on the international fashion market.

The work of an agency takes place predominantly via digital platforms. Bookers make the appropriate model selection, take care of building up the model portfolio and plan photo shoots. On location teamwork dominates among independent set builders, stylists and hair & makeup artists, who all act in the spirit of the clients' visual language. After the shoot and the fi nal image selection, retouching is used as it can add even more depth and emotion to the photographs.

In addition to high-end campaigns and editorials for magazines, Düsseldorf is the location for an array of fashion productions. The immense demand for content for e-commerce and social media has also led to the creation of specialised studios such as 21 steps, founded by Robin Brückmann. Here, all creative steps are undertaken under one roof: photographers, video producers, editors, art directors, social media managers, photo retouch artists and concept designers. Because one aspect in fashion (production) always remains: the need for speed.

Gina Romina Bock has been modelling since the age of15. Her first show was for Prada Exclusive in Milan. Eversince she has had shoots for magazines and designers and works internationally and full-time as a model.

What does your modelling day look like?

My day starts at 7 a.m. because working as a model does not only take place in front of the camera. Behind the scenes, I work on my body and keep fi t with small workouts and yoga, I do a lot of hiking, too and make sure I eat a healthy and balanced diet. In front of the camera, the collaboration between photographer and model is very important. I love working with different people because you can learn something from each of them. For me personally, it is important to stay true to myself, because one's own personality is always reflected in the photographs.

What positive development has there been in the way models are treated?

Castings are increasingly taking place digitally. This gives me the chance to land international jobs from home. And models looks have become more diverse. In the past, there was only one ideal model, usually dictated by one "dress size". Today, models come in all body shapes and also with special fl aws. Fortunately, individuality and personality now count. The look and the uniqueness of a model have become decisive - fi nally!

Jan Wischermann balances colours, light and shadow for fashion photos for a more expressive look.

As a retouch artist Jan Wischermann creates entire worlds of images and balances colours, light and shadow as well as the colour grading of the images or campaigns. He shares his conversations with inspiring people in his podcast "Creative Industry Radio".

What is the job of a retouch artist?

It is my job to enhance the details of the image and the feelings in the image that cannot be captured by the camera. I specialise in high quality image production in the beauty/hair, fashion and commercial sectors. Be it a complex beauty/hair key visual, a modern fashion campaign or a sophisticated advertising composition.

What trends are you observing in fashion photography?

There are currently two very exciting trends in the international fashion world. On the one hand, generative artificial intelligence is increasingly fi nding its way into professional fashion productions, as on the cover of the Italian Vogue recently. In October 2022, I myself, together with the photographer Ava Pivot from Berlin, have started working on fashion editorials with a fusion of photography and AI-generated accessories or even entire sets. On the other hand, analogue print techniques, such as C-printing or PreFlash printing have resurfaced. An example of this is the current Prada campaign.

Nicola Weidemann works as a hair and makeup artist for fashion and advertising and runs Weidemann Beauty Store and the Makeup Academy Düsseldorf. In 2012, she founded her own brand, Weidemann Beautyline.

How has beauty changed in recent years?

When I started in 2002, work always involved lots of extensions. I never went to a production without a huge bag with all kinds of hair colours. Volume was in demand. Makeup was more intense. Today it's different. Hair should look natural and so should makeup. That is also refl ected in the clothes. In the past, everything was extremely well styled and rather chic. Today, everything is more casual and a bit more sporty. Well thought-out, but relaxed.

How do you implement this new naturalness in your work?

At the moment, casualness reigns. Less is more: both in makeup and hair. Foundation should look as natural as if you weren't wearing any. But accents are allowed: strong lashes, glossy lips or rouge. Everything has to have a certain coolness. I get inspiration for new looks from fashion magazines or social media, but also on the street. I like to sit in a café or a bar and just watch people... •

Words Karolina Landowski
Pictures PR

Fashion – Behind the Scenes