Fusion at its best
One tiny slip can set things in motion and turn your life upside down overnight. When Philipp Lange stumbled and hit his foot on a door frame, he had no idea how much this injury would throw him off his stride. Despite lengthy treatment and operations, he was only able to stand for a limited time – and in pain. This was particularly brutal for him as an experienced professional chef who usually spends hours a day on his feet in the kitchen. He took a year off, shouldering the agonising uncertainty of what would happen in the future and whether he might have to change jobs. In the end, the man who grew up on Maui managed to make a new start as head chef at The Court on Mühlenstraße in the Old Town.
Was it just the complicated injury or was there another deciding factor that prompted the move from the star-crowned Agatas to The Court, one of Düsseldorf's most historic buildings, which previously served mainly grilled food?
Both came together. I definitely wanted to stay in Düsseldorf simply because of our children (aged three and eight), but I really needed a change of scenery. I worked together with Agata. the owner, and the team for a decade, including three years as head chef, and we experienced all the highs and lows together - especially during the pandemic. But it was time to move on and look for new challenges.
So, what is different now?
We are part of The Wellem Hotel with its various gastronomic outlets such as Pitti and Mbassy by Franks. The Court is significantly larger than Agatas, moreover, we also have a 40 -cover outdoor seating area. Surrounded by works of art from the collection of the in-house gallery Geuer und Geuer, we have developed a completely new concept, a mixture of menus and à la carte dishes. My aim is to create a place where guests can forget their everyday lives, where they can relax and enjoy a 7-course menu or, if they have less time, try just one or two à la carte dishes or our vegetarian alternatives. No one should feel forced.
So, what is different now?
We are part of The Wellem Hotel with its various gastronomic outlets such as Pitti and Mbassy by Franks. The Court is significantly larger than Agatas, moreover, we also have a 40 -cover outdoor seating area. Surrounded by works of art from the collection of the in-house gallery Geuer und Geuer, we have developed a completely new concept, a mixture of menus and à la carte dishes. My aim is to create a place where guests can forget their everyday lives, where they can relax and enjoy a 7-course menu or, if they have less time, try just one or two à la carte dishes or our vegetarian alternatives. No one should feel forced.
For a chef, coming up with a menu is much less complicated, though - so why the variety of options?
It's extremely important to me to cater for everyone and to do so in a barrier-free way. We want to be an oasis of well-being that offers high-quality, fresh food (we don't serve convenience food) and the best service.
The Court operates as a fine dining restaurant - what is your culinary vision?
I work in such a way that I don't fit into any pigeonhole and I don't chase after any trends. For me `international` is the key word: I grew up on Maui, one of the Hawaiian Islands, a melting pot of many cultures and this is reflected in the cuisine I create. Hawaiian-inspired fusion cuisine sets the tone. I particularly like to cook with Japanese ingredients in combination with German products. For example, our Nebraska flank steak - refined with the slightly tingling Togarashi spice - is served with pea puree, peas, asparagus and a meat praline. This in turn is prepared with miso paste, ginger and garlic, accompanied by a sake-cooked jus. The whole thing has a German-French flavour, but tastes totally different and surprising. I like contrasts like this. Even when I'm planning a new dish, I incorporate a disruptive factor. Such a wow effect is fun and leaves you wanting more.
Do you eat everything?
Almost everything. I'm not a fan of offal, but when I'm cooking, I try everything - that's the be-all and end-all in the kitchen - no matter how many times I've prepared the dish. I also see every plate that is served.
What role does vegetarian cuisine play in top gastronomy?
Definitely an important one and it fits in perfectly with our concept. We treat vegetables with the utmost respect. We don't usually prepare vegan dishes, but it's no problem if we learn about such requests when the booking is made. And just as with meat or fish, we also think about sustainable processing when it comes to fruit and vegetables. We don't throw anything away (I learnt this in my apprenticeship), but think about what to do with the rest of the fish, the carcass, or with the greens from the leek or the large kohlrabi leaves. If you cook the latter with baking soda, they taste similar to spinach. We also smash apricot and cherry stones and soak them in oil, which then tastes like marzipan. Excess is a huge creative challenge.
Do you also cook at home?
Yes, but the food has to be healthy and on the table in 20 minutes - except on special days like Christmas.
What do you miss living in Düsseldorf?
The kilometre-long beaches of Maui - and the easy life there. In contrast to Düsseldorf, appearances don’t matter on the island. On my last holiday, my standard outfit consisted of flip-flops, lots of T-shirts and two pairs of shorts, which were also my boogie board shorts. When I then also get my personal soul food - poke in all its varieties - with an Asahi or Corona beer, then I'm simply very happy. •
ABOUT PHILIPP LANGE
Philipp Lange was born near Usedom, an island in the Baltic Sea, and grew up on the Hawaiian island of Maui. In 2006, after graduating from high school, he was educated in the art of fine dining at Gut Höhne, a family-run wellness business near Düsseldorf. He later honed his skills in renowned restaurants such as the Victorian and Agatas and established himself as head chef. At the Michelin-starred Agatas in particular, where he worked for over a decade, he developed an unmistakable style that combines conventional dishes with unusual flavours, always seeking a balance between the familiar and the unfamiliar. Since May 2024, the father of two has been head chef at The Court - Dining Experience restaurant in Düsseldorf, which is part of The Wellem Hotel.
Words:Dagmar Haas-Pilwat
Pictures: The Wellem