Star Cooking
She learned how to cook and run a household from her grandmother in Poland, but to make a profession out of it? Agata Reul veered between cook and florist. However, when she came to Germany, she trained as a cook in the legendary high-class restaurant “Victorian” a few steps away from Königsallee. Only a year after opening her own restaurant “Agata's” in Düsseldorf, her cuisine was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Since then, she has been the only Polish woman in Germany to own a Michelin-starred restaurant.
We meet for a chat with the restaurateur on a Monday, when the stoves are turned off and “Agata's” is closed. The interior of the restaurant is elegant but unpretentious, with modern design, earthy tones, lovely floral decorations. No white tablecloths, no waiters with white gloves, no dress code.
Did you aim for the Michelin star?
No, not so soon after opening. Everyone in the team had experience in upscale cuisine, but it takes more than a lot of passion and cooking skills to run a successful business. Our goal at the beginning was: survival. But the guests recommended us, and then the Michelin inspector came.
Of course, each menu at Agata's is aesthetically presented and a feast for the eyes, too.
What has changed with the award?
Our level of recognition and the number of reservations rose sharply. Because a star also means an invaluable marketing tool. Today we are one of 259 one-star restaurants in Germany. A Michelin star also means pressure.
How do you ensure that the same quality is always maintained?
No question, the pressure is enormous, but we all pull together. I would always decide the same way again and follow this path. I just love it.
The proportion of women among chefs with a star rating is still low. What is the reason?
The resilience as a female chef is very high and individual life decisions play an essential role: Do I aspire to a management position? Do I want the responsibility? Do I want to have children and more time for the family? I knew what I wanted from the beginning and in my team, there was never any differentiation by gender. What is decisive is the determination that the individual shows.
Modern design, earthy tones, floral decoration: the interior is tasteful and classy.
Agata Reul and chef Philipp Lange are delighted about the Michelin Star 2021.
What is unique about Agata's cuisine?
The mix of European and Asian cuisine, our personal touch. Everything that is put on the plate here is based on excellent products. Besides the quality, the processing of the ingredients is essential. How do I handle the product, can all of it possibly be used? The idea, the signature of the kitchen must be recognisable. The price-performance ratio and atmosphere must be right. And of course, the taste - we all want food that warms the soul.
What was the biggest challenge when you started your own business?
I was 31 and didn't really want to do anything but stand in the kitchen and cook. But - the restaurant bears my name, I am the face that people want to see. So, as the hostess I am at the front, do the service. I'm the girl for everything, restaurant manager, assistant waitress, office assistant, but not head chef because of time constraints. Instead of composing sauces and arranging plates, I communicate with the guests. That was hard at first. But there was no way back. I was responsible for my team, we evolved together.
What criteria are used to create the menu?
Chef Philipp Lange, who has been with us since the beginning, develops the menu seasonally and in consultation with our suppliers. Having grown up in Hawaii, he focuses more on Polynesian and Japanese influences. Philipp is the creative driving force behind our culinary style and the rest of us contribute our ideas. Different international components are important to us, and the Polish influence is also noticeable. Initially it was pierogi, the Polish answer to ravioli & co, but there was sorrel soup and beetroot bouillon - my absolute favourite dish. Generally, the dishes are first created only in the mind, then they are developed, written down, cooked, tasted, tried and tested. When cooking, everything is possible, there are no limits.
Is sustainability an issue?
Of course, we think about how much the menu needs to be characterised by products that come from other countries. We are increasingly reducing and using parts of animals that are not so common. For example, kidney cones - the meat is tender and has an intense flavour.
How big is the influence of communication and information technology in Michelin-starred restaurant in the meantime?
COVID-19 was the driver, the digital push is enormous and has made new business models possible.
What does that look like in practice?
The cash register and booking system are new. Digitally, administration is quicker to create, merchandise management is better to maintain, working hours are easier to document and much more. Let's take our new take-away or delivery offer, which was previously unthinkable in a Michelin-starred restaurant. We prepare the three-course menu and give the customers instructions on how to prepare it. New are our cooking courses, which we offer digitally and individually. All of them are tailor-made to the different wishes of the customers. Either they get shopping lists and we stream the preparation from the kitchen. Or they have the ready-made packages delivered with up to ten components per dish. Each product is pre-cooked, appropriately packaged and provided with instructions so that the meal is easy and uncomplicated to finish. Of course, it may not look the same when served as it does when we serve it. But we are the professionals.
Does social media play a role?
Even an important one. Communication with customers is much more direct and intense. I really enjoy being on Instagram or Facebook - even if I don't know or can't do everything. I have hired an employee for this purpose, and he also takes care of our networking platforms. - The months in which Agata's was closed due to COVID-19 were very creative and fruitful. We hatched numerous ideas and realised: Nothing is impossible and many things are possible.
For example?
There will be an online shop. Together with beverage expert and bartender Nic Shanker, we are developing a joint product. I run the burger shop “Food Brothers” on Ratinger Straße and am expanding as a franchisee of the chain of the same name with branches in Warsaw.
What is your greatest dream?
A country farm with a big garden.
And who will be standing at the stove at home cooking?
My husband, as always. He doesn't like my food, he thinks it's too complex. •
About Agata Reul
Agata Reul was born in Poland, near Szczecin. Her grandfather was a butcher, her parents ran a gastronomic business on the Baltic Sea. Agata studied law for a few semesters and then left her Polish homeland 17 years ago to seek her fortune in Düsseldorf. At the age of 27, she became an apprentice chef in a Michelin star restaurant in Düsseldorf and knew immediately that one day she would open a gourmet restaurant and give it her own name. She is married to Bertold Reul, hotel director of the Derag Living Hotel De Medici.
Agata’s Restaurant
In 2012, she opened the restaurant named after her in a former corner pub in the Pempelfort district rather than in Düsseldorf’s centre. In 2018, the hostess and chef moved with her team to the Living Hotel Düsseldorf on Kirchfeldstraße in Unterbilk. Agata's has been crowned with a Michelin star since 2013 and has defended it again in 2021 - the COVID-19 pandemic notwithstanding.
Interview Dagmar Haas-Pilwaat
Pictures Agata`s Restaurant